| Sakli
Vadi cottages are located in the picturesque Kaya Valley, on a peninsular
between the towns of Fethiye and Oludeniz. The peninsular is situated
on the Mediterranean coastline of southern Turkey. The cottages are
just over an hour’s drive from our local airport at Dalaman.
The
Kaya Valley is situated east of the town of Fethiye on Turkey’s
Turquoise Coastline and about 900 feet above sea level. The area in
ancient times was part of the Kingdom of Lycia.
From
Fethiye you follow the winding road up the cliffs which is signposted
for Karmylassos or Levissi. These are the original Greek and Lycian
names for the valley. The journey by car or dolmus (the local village
buses) takes about 20 minutes. You crest the cliffs and begin to descend
into the valley through some beautiful pine forests. As you exit the
trees, there are several parking areas by the roadside where you can
stop your car and look down over the whole of the valley.
There
are three villages in the valley. Keciler in the east, Kinali in the
west, where the Sakli Vadi cottages are located and the central village
of Kaya Koy. The valley has very fertile soil and up until the advent
of tourism, tobacco was the cash crop. Many of the farmers continue
to tend their fields but the crops now are a mixture of arable feed
for their animals, black figs, almonds and vegetables. Many of the fields
are so small that they still have to be ploughed using horses, which
is a wonderful sight. The valley has many traditional tea houses, restaurants
and bars that cater for all tastes.
The
residents of the two villages of Keciler and Kinali are now a mixture
of farming families and an increasing number of new comers, both Turkish
and European. In Kaya Koy is the site of the famous Ghost Village. This
was inhabited up until 1923 by Greek nationals. It became abandoned
after the Greek-Turkish population exchanges at the end of the 1919-1922
war between the two nations.
Because
the villagers thought the evicted Greeks had put evil spells on the
buildings they have remained empty for over 80 years and the village
is now in ruins. The Ministry Of Culture has designated the village,
which has over 2,000 houses and two churches as an area of historical
interest and so it cannot be developed. The village is wonderfully peaceful
to walk around and the houses are overgrown with flowers and local wild
herbs. There are tracks up to the little chapel on the hill above, which
has panoramic views of the sea and the world famous Oludeniz lagoon
and beach to the south. Louis de Bernieres uses the story of the ghost
village and the other villages in the valley to weave the plot in his
book “Birds Without Wings”.
Towering
above the valley is the 3,000 metre high mountain called Baba Dag. From
the top of the mountain hang gliders and parascenders can be seen launching
every day. The air currents are so good for this exciting sport that
the World Championships are held here almost every year.
As
you drive through the valley, you experience real Turkey. The villagers
can be seen tending their animals and fields as they have done over
the generations. The typical stone houses are interspersed with more
modern designs. However, the valley has been designated an area of natural
beauty by the Government and so has been spared the worst of modern
building developments.
Passing
through Kinali Koy at the far western edge of the valley, the road winds
down to the coast at Gemiler Bay. This delightful pebble beach is safe
for swimming and there are a number of restaurants on the beach which
sell local delicacies and drinks. Across the bay is St. Nicolas Island,
which is well worth taking one of the water taxis to visit. The island
is said at one time to have housed the remains of St. Nicolas, better
known as Santa Clause or Noel Baba in Turkish, who was born nearby in
Patara. The island is home to the ruins of several villages and a monastery
and is a great place to explore.
The
Kaya Valley encompasses all of what is best of Mediterranean Turkey.
The old blends beautifully with the new. The valley is a paradise of
calm and tranquillity, with wonderful walks and breathtaking flowers
and forests. A truly magical and relaxing experience.
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